清代服饰文化研究综述
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摘要
清朝服饰在沿袭历代汉服饰传统元素的基础上进行创新与发展,既保留了汉族服饰的部分元素,也留存了浓郁的满族民族特色和独特的造型风格,其服饰文化在中国古代文化史上占有重要地位。自中华人民共和国成立以来,学者们从多个视角展开清朝服饰的研究,学术成果丰富。通过整理前人资料,主要对目前取得的清朝服饰研究学术论文成果进行归纳与总结,并提出研究存在的不足与拓展空间,以期为接下来有意向着手研究清朝服饰的学者们提供一个清晰的脉络和参考借鉴,更好地传承中华服饰文化。
The clothing of Qing dynasty innovated and developed on the basis of inheriting the traditional elements of Han dynasty, which not only retains some elements of the clothing of Han nationality, but also retains the strong characteristics and unique modeling style of Manchu nationality. Its clothing culture plays an important role in the ancient cultural history of China. Since the founding of China, scholars have carried out the study of clothing from multiple perspectives, and the academic achievements are abundant. By sorting out previous data, this paper mainly summarizes the academic paper achievements of clothing research in the Qing dynasty at present, and puts forward the deficiency and development space of the research, in order to provide a clear vein and reference for the scholars who intend to start the clothing research in the Qing dynasty, and to inherit Chinese costume culture better.
The clothing of Qing dynasty innovated and developed on the basis of inheriting the traditional elements of Han dynasty, which not only retains some elements of the clothing of Han nationality, but also retains the strong characteristics and unique modeling style of Manchu nationality. Its clothing culture plays an important role in the ancient cultural history of China. Since the founding of China, scholars have carried out the study of clothing from multiple perspectives, and the academic achievements are abundant. By sorting out previous data, this paper mainly summarizes the academic paper achievements of clothing research in the Qing dynasty at present, and puts forward the deficiency and development space of the research, in order to provide a clear vein and reference for the scholars who intend to start the clothing research in the Qing dynasty, and to inherit Chinese costume culture better.
引文
[1]白建新.《天朝衣冠》述评[J].紫禁城,2009(8):45.BAI Jianxin.A Comment on the dress in imperial courts of China [J].Forbidden City,2009(8):45.
[2]曾慧.满族服饰研究(二)[J].满族研究,2013(3):57-63.ZENG Hui.Study on Manchu costumes(二) [J].Manzhu Minority Research,2013(3):57-63.
[3]朴文英.清代服饰形成因素与成形理念探索[J].辽宁省博物馆馆刊,2007:400-412.PU Wenying.Research on forming factors and forming concept of Qing dynasty clothes [J].Liaoning Provincial Museum Journal,2007:400-412.
[4]王耘.清代服饰变化与满汉文化交融[J].纺织科技进展,2008(6):108-109.WANG Yun.Change of garment and ornament in Qing dynasty and culture mingle of Manchu and Han [J].Progress in Textile Science & Technology,2008(6):108-109.
[5]刘若琳.尚武遗风的清代服饰汉化流变[J].艺苑,2011(1):82-87.LIU Ruolin.Han rheology of Qing dynasty garment [J].Forum of Arts,2011(1):82-87.
[6]刘菲.清前期皇室及贵族服饰研究[D].济南:山东大学,2014.LIU Fei.The Research of Clothing of Royal and Noble in the Early Qing Dynasty [D].Ji’nan:Shandong University,2014.
[7]李媚.清代文官服饰制度研究[D].长沙:湖南师范大学,2009.LI Mei.A Study on the System of the Civil Offcial’s Dress in the Qing Dynasty [D].Changsha:Hunan Normal University,2009.
[8]张正义.锦绣后宫:清代后妃服饰简述(上)[J].文物鉴定与鉴赏,2015(11):24-31.ZHANG Zhengyi.Samite haram:a brief description of the dress of empresses in the Qing dynasty [J].Identification and Appreciation,2015(11):24-31.
[9]严勇.清代服饰等级[J].紫禁城,2008(10):70-81.YAN Yong.The dress class of Qing dynasty [J].Forbidden City,2008(10):70-81.
[10]雷文广.清代帝王丝绸服饰的审美特征[J].丝绸,2013,50(1):54-57.LEI Wenguang.Aesthetic characteristics of emperor silk clothing in Qing dynasty [J].Journal of Silk,2013,50(1):54-57.
[11]王淑慧.满族传统服装造型结构研究[D].北京:北京服装学院,2012.WANG Shuhui.Study on Shapes and Patterns of Traditional Manchu Costume [D].Beijing:Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology,2012.
[12]殷安妮.晚清宫廷氅衣与衬衣异同比较及其工艺释析[J].艺术设计研究,2014(2):38-42.YIN Anni.Comparison between royal “Chang” clothes and royal underlinen,analysis of crafting feature in late Qing dynasty [J].Art &Design Research,2014(2):38-42.
[13]许平山,史锋,宣凤琴,等.清代氅衣造型工艺特征分析[J].丝绸,2017,54(3):44-50.XU Pingshan,SHI Feng,XUAN Fengqin,et al.Analysis on process characteristics of cloak molding in Qing dynasty [J].Journal of Silk,2017,54(3):44-50.
[14]张俊杰,赵明.满族裤装造型结构研究[J].丝绸,2014,51(11):38-42.ZHANG Junjie,ZHAO Ming.Study on modeling composition of Manchu Trousers [J].Journal of Silk,2014,51(11):38-42.
[15]梁惠娥,刘丹丹.凤尾裙的设计要素与制作技艺[J].丝绸,2015,52(7):52-58.LIANG Hui’e,LIU Dandan.Design elements and production techniques of phoenix-Tail skirt [J].Journal of Silk,2015,52(7):52-58.
[16]陈静洁,刘瑞璞.清末民初马褂标本连裁肩袖线偏斜的纸样技术[J].北京服装学院学报(自然科学版),2010,30(3):1-9.CHEN Jingjie,LIU Ruipu.Pattern technology of the shoulder-sleeve line deflection of the jacket Specimen’s conterminous cuttingin the late Qing dynasty and the early republic of China [J].Journal of Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology (Natural Science Edition),2010,30(3):1-9.
[17]朱博伟,刘瑞璞.旗袍三个发展时期的结构断代考据[J].纺织学报,2017,38(5):115-121.ZHU Bowei,LIU Ruipu.Dating research on three development stages of Qipao [J].Journal of Textile Research,2017,38(5):115-121.
[18]徐东,鹿新杰.清代满族官定服饰结构造型中的文化内涵[J].服饰导刊,2013,2(2):13-16.XU Dong,LU Xinjie.The cultural connotation of the Manchu official costume in Qing dynasty [J].Fashion Guide,2013,2(2):13-16.
[19]袁蓓,王小平,初建杰,等.符号学视角下的清朝宫廷服饰纹样特征分析[J].西北工业大学学报(社会科学版),2010,30(1):53-55.YUAN Bei,WANG Xiaopin,CHU Jianjie,et al.An analysis of the patterns and features of the royal costume of Qing dynasty from the perspective of semiotics [J].Journal of Northwestern Polytechnical University (Social Sciences),2010,30(1):53-55.
[20]王晓彤,崔荣荣,牛犁.基于晚清五彩绣福寿如意饰边女短衫的符号探究[J].丝绸,2018,55(2):82-86.WANG Xiaotong,CUI Rongrong,NIU Li.Semiotic study based on the women’s short blouse decorated with fushou patterns of colorful embroidery and edging of Ruyi-shaped in the late the Qing dynasty [J].Journal of Silk,2018,55(2):82-86.
[21]杨素瑞.清代宫廷服饰色彩考析[J].丝绸,2014,51(5):69-73.YANG Surui.Study on colors of royal costume in Qing dynasty [J].Journal of Silk,2014,51(5):69-73.
[22]李媛媛.清代满族服装色彩研究[J].大众文艺,2016(18):138.LI Yuanyuan.Study on color of Manchu clothing in Qing dynasty [J].Art and Literature for the Masses,2016(18):138.
[23]常卓,苏利超.刍议清代服饰色彩审美观中的“经”与“权”[J].洛阳师范学院学报,2012,31(7):122-124.CHANG Zhuo,SU Lichao.Authority “Jing” and “Quan” in the qing dynasty clothing color aesthetics [J].Journal of Luoyang Normal University,2012,31(7):122-124.
[24]袁仄.清王府服饰与衣冠之治[C]//文化部恭王府管理中心.清代王府及王府文化国际学术研讨会论文集.北京:北京史研究会,2005:11.YUAN Ze.The dress and reign of emperor of Qing dynasty [C]// Proceedings of the International Symposium on Royal Government and Royal Culture in Qing Dynasty.Beijing:The Ministry of Culture Prince Gong Administration Center.2005:11.
[25]王亚蓉.清代贵族服饰织造的技术与艺术[C]//文化部恭王府管理中心.清代王府及王府文化国际学术研讨会论文集.北京:北京史研究会,2005 :6.WANG Yarong.The technique and art of weaving aristocratic garments in Qing dynasty [C]// Proceedings of the International Symposium on Royal Government and Royal Culture in Qing Dynasty.Beijing:The Ministry of Culture Prince Gong Administration Center,2005:6.
[26]殷安妮.故宫藏清代宫廷织绣活计[J].文物,2007(9):76-87.YIN Anni.Embroidery handicrafts of Qing dynasty palace hidden in the palace museum [J].Cultural Relics,2007(9):76-87.
[27]庄慧敏,王群山.浅谈清代官帽[J].艺术与设计(理论),2017,2(12):104-106.ZHUANG Huimin,WANG Qunshan.On the official cap of Qing dynasty [J].Art and Design,2017,2(12):104-106.
[28]梁惠娥,李坤元.清代“彩帨”的形制与图案[J].丝绸,2016,53(10):52-57.LIANG Hui’e,LI Kunyuan.Structure and pattern of “Caishui” in Qing dynasty [J].Journal of Silk,2016,53(10):52-57.
[29]关莹,田宏.清代宫廷服饰结构与工艺元素在现代服饰中的应用与分析[J].辽宁丝绸,2016(2):27-31.GUAN Ying,TIAN Hong.The application and analysis of the structure and craft elements of palace dress in modern dress in Qing dynasty [J].Liaoning Tussah Silk,2016(2):27-31.
[30]马雪松.清代维吾尔族的服饰文化[J].新疆社会科学,2002(5):84-87.MA Xuesong.The clothing culture of uygur in qing dynasty [J].Xinjiang Sociality and Economy,2002(5):84-87.
[31]王萍.哈密地区维吾尔族清代服饰文化影响因素研究[D].乌鲁木齐:新疆师范大学,2011.WANG Ping.Uighur Hami District Dress Culture of Qing Dynasty Influence [D].Urumchi:Xinjiang Normal University,2011.
[32]赵晓,闫亦农,张诺.清代和亲政策对赤峰地区蒙古部落服饰的影响[J].丝绸,2016,53(9):56-62.ZHAO Xiao,YAN Yinong,ZHANG Nuo.Influence of political marriage in Qing dynasty on Mongol tribal costumes in Chifeng [J].Journal of Silk,2016,53(9):56-62.
[33]任丽娜.清代民间妇女服饰浅谈[J].饰,1999(1):29-30.REN Li'na.Talking about the folk women’s clothing in the Qing dynasty [J].Decoration,1999(1):29-30.
[34]彭静.京剧服饰审美中的满族意识与符号意义[D].抚州:东华理工大学,2012.PENG Jing.The Consciousness and Symbol Significance of the Manchu in Peking Opera Costume’s Aesthetic [D].Fuzhou:East China Institute of Technology,2012.
[2]曾慧.满族服饰研究(二)[J].满族研究,2013(3):57-63.ZENG Hui.Study on Manchu costumes(二) [J].Manzhu Minority Research,2013(3):57-63.
[3]朴文英.清代服饰形成因素与成形理念探索[J].辽宁省博物馆馆刊,2007:400-412.PU Wenying.Research on forming factors and forming concept of Qing dynasty clothes [J].Liaoning Provincial Museum Journal,2007:400-412.
[4]王耘.清代服饰变化与满汉文化交融[J].纺织科技进展,2008(6):108-109.WANG Yun.Change of garment and ornament in Qing dynasty and culture mingle of Manchu and Han [J].Progress in Textile Science & Technology,2008(6):108-109.
[5]刘若琳.尚武遗风的清代服饰汉化流变[J].艺苑,2011(1):82-87.LIU Ruolin.Han rheology of Qing dynasty garment [J].Forum of Arts,2011(1):82-87.
[6]刘菲.清前期皇室及贵族服饰研究[D].济南:山东大学,2014.LIU Fei.The Research of Clothing of Royal and Noble in the Early Qing Dynasty [D].Ji’nan:Shandong University,2014.
[7]李媚.清代文官服饰制度研究[D].长沙:湖南师范大学,2009.LI Mei.A Study on the System of the Civil Offcial’s Dress in the Qing Dynasty [D].Changsha:Hunan Normal University,2009.
[8]张正义.锦绣后宫:清代后妃服饰简述(上)[J].文物鉴定与鉴赏,2015(11):24-31.ZHANG Zhengyi.Samite haram:a brief description of the dress of empresses in the Qing dynasty [J].Identification and Appreciation,2015(11):24-31.
[9]严勇.清代服饰等级[J].紫禁城,2008(10):70-81.YAN Yong.The dress class of Qing dynasty [J].Forbidden City,2008(10):70-81.
[10]雷文广.清代帝王丝绸服饰的审美特征[J].丝绸,2013,50(1):54-57.LEI Wenguang.Aesthetic characteristics of emperor silk clothing in Qing dynasty [J].Journal of Silk,2013,50(1):54-57.
[11]王淑慧.满族传统服装造型结构研究[D].北京:北京服装学院,2012.WANG Shuhui.Study on Shapes and Patterns of Traditional Manchu Costume [D].Beijing:Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology,2012.
[12]殷安妮.晚清宫廷氅衣与衬衣异同比较及其工艺释析[J].艺术设计研究,2014(2):38-42.YIN Anni.Comparison between royal “Chang” clothes and royal underlinen,analysis of crafting feature in late Qing dynasty [J].Art &Design Research,2014(2):38-42.
[13]许平山,史锋,宣凤琴,等.清代氅衣造型工艺特征分析[J].丝绸,2017,54(3):44-50.XU Pingshan,SHI Feng,XUAN Fengqin,et al.Analysis on process characteristics of cloak molding in Qing dynasty [J].Journal of Silk,2017,54(3):44-50.
[14]张俊杰,赵明.满族裤装造型结构研究[J].丝绸,2014,51(11):38-42.ZHANG Junjie,ZHAO Ming.Study on modeling composition of Manchu Trousers [J].Journal of Silk,2014,51(11):38-42.
[15]梁惠娥,刘丹丹.凤尾裙的设计要素与制作技艺[J].丝绸,2015,52(7):52-58.LIANG Hui’e,LIU Dandan.Design elements and production techniques of phoenix-Tail skirt [J].Journal of Silk,2015,52(7):52-58.
[16]陈静洁,刘瑞璞.清末民初马褂标本连裁肩袖线偏斜的纸样技术[J].北京服装学院学报(自然科学版),2010,30(3):1-9.CHEN Jingjie,LIU Ruipu.Pattern technology of the shoulder-sleeve line deflection of the jacket Specimen’s conterminous cuttingin the late Qing dynasty and the early republic of China [J].Journal of Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology (Natural Science Edition),2010,30(3):1-9.
[17]朱博伟,刘瑞璞.旗袍三个发展时期的结构断代考据[J].纺织学报,2017,38(5):115-121.ZHU Bowei,LIU Ruipu.Dating research on three development stages of Qipao [J].Journal of Textile Research,2017,38(5):115-121.
[18]徐东,鹿新杰.清代满族官定服饰结构造型中的文化内涵[J].服饰导刊,2013,2(2):13-16.XU Dong,LU Xinjie.The cultural connotation of the Manchu official costume in Qing dynasty [J].Fashion Guide,2013,2(2):13-16.
[19]袁蓓,王小平,初建杰,等.符号学视角下的清朝宫廷服饰纹样特征分析[J].西北工业大学学报(社会科学版),2010,30(1):53-55.YUAN Bei,WANG Xiaopin,CHU Jianjie,et al.An analysis of the patterns and features of the royal costume of Qing dynasty from the perspective of semiotics [J].Journal of Northwestern Polytechnical University (Social Sciences),2010,30(1):53-55.
[20]王晓彤,崔荣荣,牛犁.基于晚清五彩绣福寿如意饰边女短衫的符号探究[J].丝绸,2018,55(2):82-86.WANG Xiaotong,CUI Rongrong,NIU Li.Semiotic study based on the women’s short blouse decorated with fushou patterns of colorful embroidery and edging of Ruyi-shaped in the late the Qing dynasty [J].Journal of Silk,2018,55(2):82-86.
[21]杨素瑞.清代宫廷服饰色彩考析[J].丝绸,2014,51(5):69-73.YANG Surui.Study on colors of royal costume in Qing dynasty [J].Journal of Silk,2014,51(5):69-73.
[22]李媛媛.清代满族服装色彩研究[J].大众文艺,2016(18):138.LI Yuanyuan.Study on color of Manchu clothing in Qing dynasty [J].Art and Literature for the Masses,2016(18):138.
[23]常卓,苏利超.刍议清代服饰色彩审美观中的“经”与“权”[J].洛阳师范学院学报,2012,31(7):122-124.CHANG Zhuo,SU Lichao.Authority “Jing” and “Quan” in the qing dynasty clothing color aesthetics [J].Journal of Luoyang Normal University,2012,31(7):122-124.
[24]袁仄.清王府服饰与衣冠之治[C]//文化部恭王府管理中心.清代王府及王府文化国际学术研讨会论文集.北京:北京史研究会,2005:11.YUAN Ze.The dress and reign of emperor of Qing dynasty [C]// Proceedings of the International Symposium on Royal Government and Royal Culture in Qing Dynasty.Beijing:The Ministry of Culture Prince Gong Administration Center.2005:11.
[25]王亚蓉.清代贵族服饰织造的技术与艺术[C]//文化部恭王府管理中心.清代王府及王府文化国际学术研讨会论文集.北京:北京史研究会,2005 :6.WANG Yarong.The technique and art of weaving aristocratic garments in Qing dynasty [C]// Proceedings of the International Symposium on Royal Government and Royal Culture in Qing Dynasty.Beijing:The Ministry of Culture Prince Gong Administration Center,2005:6.
[26]殷安妮.故宫藏清代宫廷织绣活计[J].文物,2007(9):76-87.YIN Anni.Embroidery handicrafts of Qing dynasty palace hidden in the palace museum [J].Cultural Relics,2007(9):76-87.
[27]庄慧敏,王群山.浅谈清代官帽[J].艺术与设计(理论),2017,2(12):104-106.ZHUANG Huimin,WANG Qunshan.On the official cap of Qing dynasty [J].Art and Design,2017,2(12):104-106.
[28]梁惠娥,李坤元.清代“彩帨”的形制与图案[J].丝绸,2016,53(10):52-57.LIANG Hui’e,LI Kunyuan.Structure and pattern of “Caishui” in Qing dynasty [J].Journal of Silk,2016,53(10):52-57.
[29]关莹,田宏.清代宫廷服饰结构与工艺元素在现代服饰中的应用与分析[J].辽宁丝绸,2016(2):27-31.GUAN Ying,TIAN Hong.The application and analysis of the structure and craft elements of palace dress in modern dress in Qing dynasty [J].Liaoning Tussah Silk,2016(2):27-31.
[30]马雪松.清代维吾尔族的服饰文化[J].新疆社会科学,2002(5):84-87.MA Xuesong.The clothing culture of uygur in qing dynasty [J].Xinjiang Sociality and Economy,2002(5):84-87.
[31]王萍.哈密地区维吾尔族清代服饰文化影响因素研究[D].乌鲁木齐:新疆师范大学,2011.WANG Ping.Uighur Hami District Dress Culture of Qing Dynasty Influence [D].Urumchi:Xinjiang Normal University,2011.
[32]赵晓,闫亦农,张诺.清代和亲政策对赤峰地区蒙古部落服饰的影响[J].丝绸,2016,53(9):56-62.ZHAO Xiao,YAN Yinong,ZHANG Nuo.Influence of political marriage in Qing dynasty on Mongol tribal costumes in Chifeng [J].Journal of Silk,2016,53(9):56-62.
[33]任丽娜.清代民间妇女服饰浅谈[J].饰,1999(1):29-30.REN Li'na.Talking about the folk women’s clothing in the Qing dynasty [J].Decoration,1999(1):29-30.
[34]彭静.京剧服饰审美中的满族意识与符号意义[D].抚州:东华理工大学,2012.PENG Jing.The Consciousness and Symbol Significance of the Manchu in Peking Opera Costume’s Aesthetic [D].Fuzhou:East China Institute of Technology,2012.